And, then there are not so small days.

Putting on a show for the peanut gallery.

The month of January was tough for me.  At least when considering waves.  And top that off with lack of snow.  It was not that there was any lack of waves in January.  In fact, it was a stellar sort of mid winter month.  Mostly clear, light winds and a moderate swell running nearly daily.  Nothing huge, but a few bigger days here and there.  It was just that my timing was way off.  I had tripped planned to the Sierra and Florida during the best swell events.  My mornings are occupied with hanging with my son.  No complaints there.  And afternoons seemed to either have some weird breeze knocking things down, or if is did stay calm, it was less than chest high.  And on those days the wind kept me in town, it kept everyone else in town today.  For someone who often surfs with fewer than five people, a crowd of 40 is just wrong.

Some of the better ones came is single or double wave sets.  The peak was a long drawn out drop.

Setting it back a little, to make the most of that first section.

Other sets came through and just bull dozed the entire zone.

That does not mean that there were no waves for me.  I got plenty.  Just not enough.  My ideal day is a combination of me being on my game, plentiful decent overhead waves, and five smiles to share them with.  February started with one of those days.  OTOH, watching my son does give me plenty of opportunity to watch the surf.  I never really thought much of the Lane before.  Sure, the wave tends to be good.  And sometimes it is worth fighting for some.  But as a place to hang out.  Well, there are others.  But it is the perfect spot to let a little one run free, and snap some pictures of them, and a few of the waves.  Especially when there are waves.

Getting off the top of the point can be a bit of a challenge on big longer period swells

No one was bothering waiting for the inside of Middles.

Or the slot for that matter.

Trying to sneak inside of this one.

The bigger days are the best.  We have not had any huge days yet this year, but toward the end of the month we had a sizable Thursday.  A few bomber sets broke way out on Third Reef.  It almost looked like waves were breaking out in the middle of Monterey Bay.  No one was riding these bombe, mostly because they would merely be crumbling mountains that would reform and break out on 2nd.  The waves that slipped through and peaked here were the best ones.  Nice overhead drops.  Some lined up on the outside for a while.  Others were slow, waiting to stand up further inside.  They all looked fun.  Middle Peak had finally come to life.

Some waves just cleaned out the entire line up.

A few gems got picked off.

The guy way inside is probably happy he is not right under the peak.

Getting ready for this bomb to set up through the inside section.

It was one of those days that never got too crowded.  Only a few have the right boards and the right mind to paddle for these.  Most every one else were along other parts of the coast that don't focus quite so well.  The points and slabs of West Cliff were looking fun.  Cowell's had its crowd.  I am sure the east side was looking fun.  And crowded.  Especially as the tide dropped.  But at Middles, the crowd never got more that 15.  And you really only paddle out hoping for one or two of the good ones.

Looking way out the back at the small mountains of water coming in.

The wave through Indicators was wrapping and reeling in its own good way.

Some of the serious shooters were out talking shop on the rocks.

Turned out a pretty nice way to finish off the month.  Surf continues to bless us on the central coast.  It what is the worse snow year in (my) memory, is turning out to be a swell machine.  Plenty of moderate waves, with very little inclement weather to deal with.  Now, if I could just score a few of those off shore mornings, all would be well in surfland.

Small Winter Days.

Even small days can offer a tube or two.

Last week, I had just a few short windows to surf.  That is just the way life is now.  And you almost always take advantage of them.  I was thinking that it would just not quite be worth it to go out for a surf.  A combination of winds up north and a weak, dying swell, at that point down under 12 second periods and less than six feet, it did not sound promising.  So, before my relief got home and gave me a chance to surf, I decided to take my son out to the park and a quick walk along West Cliff for a look see.

When things hit the reef right, a wave would form.

Sometimes a good one.

With opportunity to schwap it down the line.  

Some days, you just need to know where to go look for the slightest signs of swell.  The nice thing about the winter is that "flat" does not necessarily mean that it is flat.  There is almost always some sort of swell in the water, no matter how minimal or inconsistent.  And in that case, there still are waves to be had.  You just need to know the spots.  Some of those spots are well off the beaten, secret to just a few.  Although, truth be told, none stay secret for long.  If you are lucky, your spots require cliffs to descend, poison oak to navigate, parking to locate, sharks to avoid or a any list of perils that keep the smart away.  Or, your spot might be right under everyones nose.

The ref is calling a foul, but this surfer just ignores him and keeps on going.

Take your call, and shove it.

Often, at these spots, a different kind of trial waits.  The crew can be tight, and it may take years of persistence before you are allowed anything but scraps.  Chances are, before then, a bad taste in your mouth may lead you ways. Or just the general exclusion.  Some leave complaining about the assholes.  But really, every surf town needs one spot where all the angst can happen.  And the local rippers can demonstrate how it is done.  So be it.

On a day that most report as "flat" even the small ones get ridden.  You sometimes just need to work more.

But that does not mean you can't rip these little gems.

Anyway, I saw that there were waves.  I decided to head to one of my spots that are a little less noticed.  A little mellower.  And where I could get lots of waves.  Maybe they were not quite the waves from the Holiday, but they were still fun.  And that is why I still surf on the small winter days.  Because really, there are always some waves.  Somewhere.

This certainly looks better than sitting on the couch.

The Long Period Swell and Holiday Waves.

Finally.  They have started to come with a certain regularity.  And they are arriving while the weather is calm.  And the winds, for at least part of the day, are light and off shore.  The long period northwest swells of winter are starting to show up along the coast.  And on the weekend, no less.  The first came last Friday night when the buoys boosted up to 5.5 feet at 20 seconds.  That is enough for those waves to wrap well into town and onto some of the most competitive reefs in central California.  Sure, the waves were much bigger north of town, but for some, it is about convenience.

Drawing up on the reef, getting ready for it to go.

This spot is about the slash and burn.  Even when small, the long period swells wrap and warp.

Not a whole lot of size, but plenty of fun.

Getting ready for the race track.

Of course, the best waves were up the coast, with Saturday morning quite impressive.  But with little time to surf, there was no time to shoot.  Still it was nice to see the need to grab some bigger equipment for the first time in a while.  While Saturday was the biggest, the swell seemed to really get defined and organized on Sunday.  Barrels were had.  And not the inside beachbreak grinder type, but heavy boxed up, don't get hit by that lip tubes.  Needless to say, it was fun.

Some like to use that rail and carve.

Some like to bust the fins out and slide.

And still others like total release.

Its is all fun, but throwing buckets is still what I like to see.

And all of this, just in time for the holidays.  Sure the lineups get a bit more crowded this time of year, but there are more lineups to share when the swell and winds work together.  You can tuck yourself well into town and take out the log, or head up the coast an hour and ride your biggest gun.  Personally, I like the stretch of coastline about ten miles north of town.  You have everything you need up there except good protection from north west winds.  But when we get weather like this, you don't need to hide.

This guy was finding time to bury a few rails.

Always a good view of the left at Middles.

Finding a few floaty sections along the inside.

And the rights at Middles some times line up.

Some sections ask for a cut back.

Even the smaller waves offer some punch.

Getting ready for the speed section.

Small clean ones sneaking through.

And the sailing weather has been quite good as well.

It looks like we might have a few more weeks of this fall like weather on tap before winter takes hold here in Santa Cruz.  Make the most of the clean and lined up waves.  Victory at sea will be here soon enough.  After a fairly weak early November, it has been game on for the holiday season.  Nothing huge as of yet, but plenty of fun days with even a few moments of triple over head up the coast a bit.  In town it has been fun with just a tiny bit of gnar.

When this section lights up, it is game on.

Making the drop as the inside crew scrambles for the shoulder.

Time for a few big cut backs.

Or float over the top.

Top turn with a bit of power are making a come back.

Outside bombs.

One of the lefts that slipped through.

Slow bottom turns can still set you up for the ride.

Getting ready to work that section.

I finally paddled out at the Lane for the first time since May or June.  The winds had come up quickly during my surf window, and even the Miles looked pretty ripped.  I forgot how much fun this place can be when we have some real swell.  And how the bodies drop off the point like they are popping from a pez dispenser.  I would not doubt it average one every two minutes while I was out there.  But damn, the right wave out there is pretty damned fun.

Even the small days can be fun.

This kid was killing it this particular day.  He knows how to use his rails for sure.

And he knows how to complete his turn and set up the ramp.  Bravo.

Happy New Year everyone, and get out there, and have some fun.  The waves continue to be quite good and are plenty of fun.  It looks like we have a few more weeks of this high pressure and light winds.  Go bring in 2012 in style.  Get barreled.