Tuesday, December 19, 2017

A Perfect Session. Or Foot Rehab.

Quite day on the bay.

Sailing time.

Small clean surf was the name of the game.

Indicators was lining up.

Just stand and go.

The light was nice as well.

A lot of cruising going on.

Wrapping past Cowell's Point.

Small crowds for the most part.

Banking off the curl.

It looked real fun out there.

I had one of those mornings.  The waves were not perfect.  They lacked a particular shape to classify them as thus.  For instance, I did not really see anything tube.  Then again, I was only in the water for thirty six minutes.  And while not epic, it sure was a hell of a lot of fun.  It started out not quite so optimistic, as a series of swells piled upon each other, with the last coming blasting down the coast overnight with shorter periods and steep angle.  Things sounded messy.  The previous days had been a bit so.  Lots of energy from lots of different places.  Not to complain, it is just that the previous week had been really clean.  And the one before that, crisp.  The confusion and slop that arrived in the water late last Wednesday has just not been as fun.  Sure, town was likely fine most of those days, but I really enjoy those clean clean days.

Each waiting  patiently for their turn.

Only two left by the inside.

Another good day for a sail.

Slot had a few working.

Decent enough to get off the top.

And back in.

One of my favorite shots of the day.

Indicators was working very well last Thursday.

It went.

Lots of kelp in the line up.

A beautiful day for sure.

This guy was having fun.


The Slot unleashing.

Swell ines pumping in.

A little shade provides.

Green, kelp, sand stone.  

Heading to the jump off point.  Easiest paddle out around.

Its had some action.

He didn't go.  Oh, well.  Was hoping for a thump.

I actually wrote that first paragraph some time ago.  Long enough ago, I am not sure when, but it would have easily applied to last week.  I broke my ankle a few months ago.  Lip hit the base of my board and snapped the fibula through the surfboard.  While I was standing on it.  Crazy.  When it happened, I knew something was wrong, but figured it was a sprain.  How does a September lip break bones?  Anyway, I was north of town at a spot not too far from the hamlet of Davenport.  Luckily the surf was not pounding the shore and I was able to crawl out of the water on all fours.  I was at the base of a cliff, so I had to walk to get my board bag, sling it over my shoulder and begin climbing.  Not a huge cliff, but a good sixty foot climb.  Then I walked the 200 yards across a gopher field to my car, and took off my boot, and wetsuit.  That was fun.  Not to mention the drive back into town.  Parked like a drunk person using my left foot to brake.  Super fun.

Never alone out there.

Green board go.

And go.

Bringing it all the way around.

Small day out at Middles, but it was showing.

Ready to fly.


Talk about sinking a rail.

A cover up.

Off the top of the green lipped wave.

Love this carve, setting up the next section.

A few bowls were had.

High speed turns through the inside.

Looking around the corner.

Middles line up.

It is the Lane, so you can't expect it to be too quite out there.

A big part of rehab right now is walking.  So I've been walking.  Sometimes along west cliff.  Surf has been looking fun.  Nothing epic, but plenty of fun.  Swell running head high or so.  A bit bigger with the new swell on Friday.  A bit lumpier as well.  But then there were still gems.  Can't wait to paddle back out.  I likely hit Cowell's in the next week.  I'm not cleared to surf yet, but just a good paddle and maybe a few knee rides.  Just gotta make sure no one runs me over.  From the cliff on Friday, there seemed to be a bit of that going on.  Anyway, enjoy the pics and get out and surf.  Don't waste your healthy days.

Its was going again.  This guy dropped in.

Middles was showing a bit more on Friday.

The lefts were mostly just the drop.

But the peak was showing for sure.

The rights ran for a bit further.

All the way past the surfer statue.

A few moderate plus sized sets came through.

Occasionally the left was also a drop plus.

Even some decent size getting into Cowell's.

I was thinking of paddling out, but saw a few too many collisions.  Rehab.

Of course, the real energy was back up the point.

Lots of waves going around.

It was time to go, but when I saw Nat stand up, figured I had to shoot.

I never actually ws able to get the camera set, he moves so quickly.

And working his wave all the way through to its end.