Monday, November 5, 2012

Lonely Surf.

Missed opportunities.

I know I have already mentioned how awesome October is around here.  But some times things can get a little lonely.  This season started off pretty nicely, but instead of improving on that, things settled down for a few weeks.  People started to focus on other things, and with reason.  But then the surf started to come back.  Nothing spectacular, but with great weather and off shore winds, there was some fun surf to be had.  But where were all the people?  I guess when the internet forecast sites are not telling folks that it is really good, then it must not have been that good.  But, man, sitting in sharky waters for two hours, while scoring shoulder high to two foot over head rifling rights sure fells good.  Except for the shark part.  And it would have been nice if at least one other surfer had showed up to split the sets.  But I am guessing those days are over.  With the ASP in town, everyone is amped back up again and in the water.  I guess, at least, I won't be so lonely any more.

Point of anticipation.

This is what it looks like when every thing is about to go right.

Coming off the top, bringing it back to the curl and setting up the next section.  Basically, a turn.

Almost.  And he already knows it.

I just loved the focus on this one.  Steely blue.

Looking at the peak from behind the corner.  

Ducking under the the guy who is ripping the top off the wave is always interesting.

Of course, after two hours of bobbing and getting waves, I started to get tired.  And I though more about how I had already ridden so many waves, and did not get bit, that maybe I should call it a morning.  So I climb the cliff, run across the shelf, get back to my truck, and change.  Then a buddy rolls up and asks how it was.  Excellent.  Just wished you had showed up 15 minutes ago and kept me in the water a bit longer.

October in Santa Cruz.  Often sunny, glassy and head high.  Even on your knees.