Friday, January 27, 2012

Small Winter Days.

Even small days can offer a tube or two.

Last week, I had just a few short windows to surf.  That is just the way life is now.  And you almost always take advantage of them.  I was thinking that it would just not quite be worth it to go out for a surf.  A combination of winds up north and a weak, dying swell, at that point down under 12 second periods and less than six feet, it did not sound promising.  So, before my relief got home and gave me a chance to surf, I decided to take my son out to the park and a quick walk along West Cliff for a look see.

When things hit the reef right, a wave would form.

Sometimes a good one.

With opportunity to schwap it down the line.  

Some days, you just need to know where to go look for the slightest signs of swell.  The nice thing about the winter is that "flat" does not necessarily mean that it is flat.  There is almost always some sort of swell in the water, no matter how minimal or inconsistent.  And in that case, there still are waves to be had.  You just need to know the spots.  Some of those spots are well off the beaten, secret to just a few.  Although, truth be told, none stay secret for long.  If you are lucky, your spots require cliffs to descend, poison oak to navigate, parking to locate, sharks to avoid or a any list of perils that keep the smart away.  Or, your spot might be right under everyones nose.

The ref is calling a foul, but this surfer just ignores him and keeps on going.

Take your call, and shove it.

Often, at these spots, a different kind of trial waits.  The crew can be tight, and it may take years of persistence before you are allowed anything but scraps.  Chances are, before then, a bad taste in your mouth may lead you ways. Or just the general exclusion.  Some leave complaining about the assholes.  But really, every surf town needs one spot where all the angst can happen.  And the local rippers can demonstrate how it is done.  So be it.

On a day that most report as "flat" even the small ones get ridden.  You sometimes just need to work more.

But that does not mean you can't rip these little gems.

Anyway, I saw that there were waves.  I decided to head to one of my spots that are a little less noticed.  A little mellower.  And where I could get lots of waves.  Maybe they were not quite the waves from the Holiday, but they were still fun.  And that is why I still surf on the small winter days.  Because really, there are always some waves.  Somewhere.

This certainly looks better than sitting on the couch.