Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Semi Secret Spots

We all have them.  Everyone else knows about the good spots.  Right?  Where I grew up surfing, everyone knew that the Ogunquit Rivermouth was the place to be.  With its near perfect rights coming off the rock point and hitting the sandbars that made up the submerged rivers banks.  Rights would roll for a hundred yards or more.  But what about Firehouse?  Or Outsides?  Or Insides, even?  It seemed like almost no one knew about these spots, or surfed them.

Just an empty line up at a scary ledge.  When this wave hits you, it feels like you've been slapped by a 2x4.

I'm sure everyone here has heard of Steamer Lane and Mavericks.  Sure, because those are the best waves around.  Or at least the most famous.  But this coast is littered with great waves between the Golden Gate and Big Sur.  Sure, spots like Steamers has consistency on its side.  And Mav's, well, it has girth.  But we have submerged points that grind forever.  Ledges that make you think twice before every drop in.  Coves that turn tiny swell into head high wedges.  Reefs that peel from a perfect A-frame.  And many of these spots remain empty.  Perhaps because you can't see them from the road.  Or are just a bit off the beaten path.  They may require a bit of a hike to get to.  A cliff to down climb.  And many of them are frequented by the landlord.  But for what ever reason, you can still score empty waves in a land where the surfers seem to seep out of the wood work every time a decent swell rolls into town.

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